Between mountain and river, Rawa holds on to its past

ANBAR — Nestled between the Euphrates River and surrounding mountains, the town of Rawa in western Anbar has undergone sweeping changes over the decades, reshaping its landscape, economy, and way of life. But longtime residents say the town’s traditions and identity remain firmly rooted.

In the 1990s, the construction of the Haditha Dam caused the old center of Rawa to be submerged, prompting residents to relocate and rebuild homes and markets in new areas. “After the water level rose, old Rawa was flooded and its features disappeared,” said Hani Mahdi, a lifelong resident. “The market moved outside and houses extended toward the new areas.”

Before the dam’s construction, Rawa was known for its hospitality. “There were no restaurants or hotels,” Mahdi said. “People would welcome guests into their homes, offer them food and a place to sleep.”

Mahdi described a town rich in agriculture and craftsmanship. Blacksmithing, carpentry, and the production of “al-jiss al-fakhir” — a durable form of plaster made from burnt stones — were widespread trades. Fishing was also central to life along the river, using traditional nets, weighted hooks, and handwoven traps.

Educator Naji Al-Rawi recalled Rawa’s former commercial center, Al-Masataah, as a bustling hub of trade. “The people of the desert and Dulaim used to bring fat, sheep, milk, and wool to trade here,” he said. “Trade was the backbone of daily life.”

Rawa’s original layout featured tightly packed homes and narrow alleys flanked by palm groves, with the Euphrates playing a vital role in both agriculture and everyday life. “Rawa lies between the mountain and the river,” Al-Rawi said. “After the Haditha Dam, residents relocated to areas stretching toward Hadar, transforming the town’s urban layout.”

Despite these shifts, Mahdi and Al-Rawi say the spirit of Rawa endures. “Every time I leave, I can’t stay away for long,” Mahdi said. “This city is my foundation.”