In Iraq’s Al-Duluiya, tradition unites generations over madgoga

SALAH AL-DIN – In the town of Al-Duluiya, a cherished winter tradition brings together elders and youth to prepare “Madgoga,” a traditional Iraqi confection made from dates, tahani, and sesame seeds. Gatherings are marked by a strict rule: No political discussions or scrolling on phones.

Instead, participants share memories and cultural stories, focusing on the communal preparation of this age-old delicacy.

Hamid Mohammed, an elder from the Al-Sumaida tribe, explained the significance of these gatherings: “When preparing madgoga, we set aside our phones and avoid political discussions. We recall the beautiful memories associated with making this confectionary, which predates modern confections like baklava. We use dried Zahdi dates and sesame seeds in its preparation.”

The ingredients are sourced with care. “We have been bringing dates from the orchards of Al-Rahhaliya in Anbar since the 1990s, or from the orchards of Mandali in Diyala, as their saline soil produces dates that are less sweet and drier,” Mohammed noted. “The sesame seeds are purchased from Al-Duluiya farms, specifically requesting the ‘first shake’ of the harvest, which yields larger, oil-rich seeds.”

Kahlan Khudair, a young resident of Al-Duluiya, emphasized the cultural importance of Madgoga: “It’s a heritage passed down through generations and considered the fruit of winter. We gather at a friend’s house, share stories of our traditions, and set aside mobile devices and news, especially politics.”

The preparation involves roasting the sesame seeds and pounding them with dried dates using a traditional pestle and mortar, known locally as a “jaun.” The resulting mixture is then distributed among the attendees.

Amir Mohammed, another young participant, highlighted the benefits of these gatherings: “Mobile phones have become a distraction in social settings, isolating individuals from the group. When preparing madgoga, everyone is engaged. We set aside our phones and discuss tribal matters or topics related to our community and relatives, making the evening both enjoyable and beneficial.”