A legacy of coffee: Mosul coffee vendor reflects on decades-old family business

MOSUL – Abdulkarim Mulla Mohammed, 65, is one of the oldest coffee vendors in Mosul, with decades of experience serving coffee. He inherited the profession from his father and grandfather, Khalid, and today works alongside his sons, Louay and Qusay, in the coffee trade.

The family began their business in the small market near Najafi Street in western Mosul in the 1960s. They later opened a café in Souq al-Shaareen, which has become a popular gathering spot, especially on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays.

The café features traditional coffee pots and daggers, some of which date back 100 years. Mulla Mohammed said the city’s coffee culture has changed over the years. While coffee vendors were once mainly employed at mourning gatherings, their services are now increasingly sought after for a variety of events, including graduation thesis discussions and business openings.

Qusay Abdulkarim, one of his sons, often roams the old city markets, serving coffee to passersby and merchants. “Yemeni coffee used to be the favorite among the people of Mosul, but now Ethiopian coffee, which is similar in taste, has become a popular alternative,” Abdulkarim explained.

He added that Brazilian and Colombian coffee varieties are also readily available, while a new type of chocolate-flavored coffee, called “chocolaty coffee,” has gained popularity in celebrations and events.

In an interview with 964media, Mulla Mohammed reflected on his early years: “I started working with coffee over 60 years ago. We used to prepare it at home, near Najafi Street in the western part of Mosul. My father and grandfather were involved in this trade as well. We would walk around for two hours a day.”

Qusay, Mulla Mohammed’s son, shared his own experience: “My brother and I, along with our children, have inherited the profession from our father and grandfather. I began serving coffee when I was 7 years old. In the past, coffee was mostly served at funerals, but today, especially after the city’s liberation, it is now served at weddings, official inaugurations, and even in academic discussions for master’s and doctoral theses. Coffee is also a popular beverage during engagement ceremonies.”

He further noted the growing interest in coffee among young people: “In the past, our elders discouraged us from drinking coffee, believing it was harmful. But now, with the recognition of its benefits as a stimulant, young people from all age groups have embraced it.”

The family’s café in Souq al-Shaareen has been designed with a traditional aesthetic to reflect the trade’s long history. “We have kept coffee pots and daggers that date back over a century, from the time of my fifth great-grandfather,” Qusay added.