Abu Hudhal, Samarra’s iconic kebab chef, reflects on 60 years of tradition

SAMARRA — Hatim Nassif, known locally as “Abu Hudhal,” has become a beloved figure in Samarra’s Albu Baz district, where his restaurant has been serving kebabs, tikka, and maqlak for more than six decades. Despite his efforts to recreate his restaurant’s famous flavor at home, Nassif says that his kebabs taste best when cooked in his kitchen, where traditional Iraqi maqam music fills the air.

“Even I don’t know the secret of my kebab,” he told 964media. “Whenever I try to make it at home, it doesn’t taste the same. Perhaps the secret lies in the place itself.”

Born in 1951, Nassif began working in his family’s grilling business in 1962, learning the trade from his father and older brothers. Over the years, his restaurant has gained a reputation that attracts customers from across Iraq, including Basra, Amara, Samawah, and Baghdad. “Since then, my restaurant in Samarra has developed a unique flavor that draws people from all over,” he said.

Nassif uses high-quality meat sourced from well-known Samarra butcher Hajj Mohammed Al-Maslawy. “I rely on the meat I get from Hajj Mohammed Al-Maslawy, who is known for his cleanliness and high quality,” he said, adding that this choice of meat plays a key role in his dishes.

The restaurant, which has been serving locals for decades, is more than just a business for Nassif. He describes it as “peace of mind” for both himself and his customers, who find comfort in the familiar sounds of maqam music while waiting for their meals. “My work is more than a profession; it’s a part of who I am,” he shared, mentioning that it provides him with a sense of purpose.

Over the years, Nassif has also mingled with many of Iraq’s most famous musicians, including Yas Khidr, Yousef Omar, Saad Al-Hilli, Mahmoud Anwar, Hussein Nema, and Kadim Al-Sahir. “I used to meet these famous Iraqi singers in Baghdad,” he said, reflecting on his long career and the memories it holds.

Though many of his previous employees, who were Kurdish, have returned to their hometowns, Nassif now runs the restaurant alongside his sons. “I can’t sit at home. Being away from work makes me feel tired and unwell,” he explained. His workday starts at 3 p.m. and often stretches past midnight, reflecting his dedication to the craft. To accommodate his loyal customers, Nassif also provides a delivery service.

For Abu Hudhal, the kebab, music, and community that his restaurant brings together are all parts of a legacy he hopes will continue for generations.