The art of turban making in Najaf: local tailor highlights distinct styles for shia clerics

NAJAF — Not all turbans are alike. While these subtle differences may go unnoticed by a casual observer, professional tailor Imad Al-Abdali, who specializes in religious attire in Najaf’s Old City, is well-versed in crafting turbans to suit the personal preferences of every cleric.

Al-Abdali identifies three primary styles—the Shirazi, Najafi, and Pakistani—most commonly seen among Najaf’s seminary students and religious figures. He explains that variations in the fabric’s length and wrapping technique contribute to each style’s unique appearance. According to him, a cleric’s location and academic setting often dictate turban size and shape.

“When a cleric enters Najaf, they tend to wear a smaller turban, possibly out of deference to senior scholars,” Al-Abdali told 964 media. “In the southern regions, however, the turbans are generally larger.”

One of the holiest cities in Shia Islam, Najaf is home to the Imam Ali Mosque, where Ali ibn Abi Talib—cousin and son-in-law of Prophet Muhammad—is buried. Millions of Shia Muslims visit the city, which features traditional markets, historical architecture, and revered religious sites. Najaf also hosts one of the oldest and most respected Shia seminaries (Hawza), drawing students worldwide to study Islamic jurisprudence, philosophy, and theology.

Al-Abdali, who imports mulmul fabric from India, says turban lengths can range from nine to 15 meters, depending on a cleric’s personal choice and whether they attend classes within Najaf or live elsewhere.

“Some senior religious figures wear 12-meter turbans, while others prefer even longer ones,” he said. “For example, the late Sheikh Ahmed Al-Waeli [1928 – 2003] used to wear a nine-meter turban.”

Regarding wrapping styles, Al-Abdali noted, “The three most common styles in seminaries are the Najafi, Pakistani, and Shirazi wraps.”

The preparation process begins by soaking the raw fabric in water for 24 hours. Once dried, two people twist the fabric by holding its ends before folding and wrapping it around the knee.

Most seminary students use what is popularly called Pakistani fabric, but Al-Abdali clarified that “All manufacturing happens exclusively in India, but since Pakistani students used to bring this fabric to Najaf, it became known as Pakistani fabric.”

Al-Abdali cites Sheesh Mahal as the highest-quality cotton for turbans, sold at 3,000 IQD ($2 USD) per meter. Other options include “Hima” at 2,000 IQD ($1.33) and “Malmal F74” at 2,500 IQD ($1.67). Turban prices typically run between 35,000 and 45,000 IQD ($23–$30), depending on the length and fabric grade.

He adds that Iranian-made black-dyed fabrics have recently entered the market but are generally considered inferior to Indian fabric.