Dhi Qar artisans preserve Iraqi traditions with handcrafted abayas and agals

DHI QAR — As colder weather sets in, many Iraqis in rural areas are embracing traditional attire, including the abaya cloak, agal headband, and ghutra headscarf. Artisans in Al-Shatra, north of Dhi Qar, claim to be Iraq’s finest makers of these garments, noting that their handcrafted products even surpass those from Najaf, a city renowned for these traditional outfits. Al-Shatra craftsmen emphasize that unlike Najaf artisans, who use hooks, they rely solely on handcrafting techniques.

In the Abaya Market within the central bazaar, Faik Hashim, owner of the oldest agal shop, explained that “each region has its own unique style of agal, crafted by hand by twisting the finest threads to achieve the desired form.” Prices for agals range between 15,000 and 100,000 Iraqi dinars ($10-$66), while a quality abaya costs between 200,000 and 300,000 dinars ($132-$198). Syrian abayas are particularly prized for their quality, with Iranian Booshahr fabrics also popular among regular customers.

Faik Hashim, a lifelong agal maker and the owner of Iraq’s oldest agal shop, describes the production process as meticulous, involving multiple stages from selecting and weaving threads to the final form. “It can take hours, or even several days, and it’s all done by hand using various traditional tools,” he explained. Different styles of agal—Syrian, Turkish, and Jordanian—are crafted based on customer preferences, with sizes and types varying by region. “For example, the southern areas have different preferences than central regions,” he noted. “Al-Shatra agals are unique, and my shop has been here since I was a child.”

Abdullah Hussein, an abaya seller, explained that “we craft our abayas using a unique method, which makes them even better than Najaf abayas, as we rely solely on hand-stitching rather than tools like hooks.” Various types of abayas are available, including Iranian Booshahr, and Syrian-made abayas, some of which are also produced locally in Iraq. Prices for high-quality Syrian abayas are the highest, ranging from 200,000 to 300,000 dinars ($132-$198), while Iranian abayas are more affordable, priced around 80,000-90,000 dinars ($52-$59).

Although demand for traditional attire had waned, these pieces are making a comeback, particularly during the winter season, as more Iraqis seek warmth and cultural expression in local markets.