'The identity of Baghdad'

Al-Rashid Street: once a bustling hub, now dark and deserted.

2024-07-27 | 14:47

BAGHDAD — As dusk falls, Al-Rasheed Street, once a bustling hub in Baghdad, now fades into darkness. The complete closure of shops and markets adds to the melancholy of a street whose current state no longer matches its historical significance. Only stray dogs roam and occasional cars pass through the once-vibrant avenue stretching from Bab Al-Sharqi to Bab Al-Mu’azzam.

Al-Rasheed Street, named after Abbasid Caliph Harun al-Rashid, has long been a major avenue in Iraq’s capital. Located near al-Maidan Square, it stands as a significant landmark due to its political, spiritual, urban, and cultural history, reflecting Iraq’s political events, intellectual vibrancy, and commercial activity over more than a century.

Today, two illuminated spots break the darkness: Mshmsh Ice Cream and the newly opened Zaza Café. These establishments strive to revive the historic street’s legacy. 964media spoke to the managers of Mshmsh and the barista of Zaza.

“We have witnessed many eras on this street. This branch holds a special place among our several branches, being the main one where the Mshmsh Ice Cream project started,” said Hassan Amjad, manager of Mshmsh Ice Cream on Al-Rasheed Street.

Since 1976, Mshmsh operated an ice cream shop next to Al-Zawraa Cinema called Zabeeb Al-Mansour. When it closed in 1995, they relocated and rebranded as Mshmsh Ice Cream.

“In the past, we operated 24 hours a day. After 2003, we began closing at 3 AM, and during holidays, we stay open until 5 AM,” Amjad explained. “The darkness of the street impacts us, but we continue to light up the street at night and serve customers from all over Baghdad.”

Mohammed Rafid, a barista at Zaza Café, shared similar sentiments. “Al-Rasheed Street is deserted and dark at night. We thought of opening a branch here to illuminate the street and help revive it after our successful experience on Al-Mutanabbi Street,” another intellectual landmark in Baghdad.

“We have been here for two and a half months, and our customer base is growing because the place offers a peaceful atmosphere. We open daily from 6 AM to 2:30 AM and aim to operate 24 hours a day. Some of our customers prefer coming to our café because it’s easy to park their cars,” Rafid added.

Muslim Habib, a first-time visitor to Zaza Café on Al-Rasheed Street, says, “I liked its simplicity. It represents a point of light amid the street’s darkness. The café’s facade blends well with its surroundings and offers a quiet space since the street is empty at night, with no traffic or noise.”

“This place brings back the identity of Baghdad, representing us far from the artificial bourgeoisie that is widespread in other parts of the city nowadays,” Habib added.

Al-Rasheed Street symbolizes Baghdad’s transformation over the past century. It has been compared to notable streets worldwide, such as Muhammad Ali Street in Cairo and Hamra Street in Beirut, due to its historical and influential significance. Efforts have been made to have the street listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, though this has yet to be achieved.